Breaking Bread
How bread is baked into history, tradition and community.
Millstone artifact at Temple of Dendera, Egypt.
From ancient grains to modern loaves, bread has shaped the histories, cultures and traditions of people around the world.
Bread is one of the world’s oldest and most cherished foods – a simple yet remarkable form of culinary craftsmanship that has sustained civilizations for more than 10,000 years. But despite its simplicity, bread also has become a powerful symbol of culture and community.
The earliest form of breadmaking began in western Asia with flat, unleavened bread cooked on hot stones. While this primitive food had little resemblance to the bread we think of today, it is the result of an important milestone in history – the start of agriculture and, more significantly, the understanding of how to cultivate grain.
Traditional stone mortar
Assorted grains
Early civilizations would break down grains using a mortar and pestle, then hydrate them with water. The invention of clay ovens around 4,000 B.C. led to leavening – the process of making dough rise. Ancient Egyptians were the first to use yeast to ferment dough, giving it a light and airy texture. As bakers became more familiar with working with yeast, they were able to refine their techniques, often changing the shape and flavors of the breads they baked.
As agricultural production began to flourish across societies in Europe and Asia, culture and economies did as well. Nomadic hunter-gatherer communities transitioned to stable settlements that were built on rich, fertile land, supporting larger populations. It took a village to make bread. The farming communities not only needed people to plant and harvest crops, but also to transport, bake and sell the loaves. Everyone in the community played a role in bread production, introducing varying techniques that gave rise to countless regional styles.
“Breads often reflect their origins,” says Adam Thomas, Executive Pastry Chef at Sea Island. “What makes brioche in Britain different from brioche in France? It might be the shape, the ingredients or even a baker’s personal touch. These distinctions define bread’s cultural identity.”
A TASTE OF PLACE
Each region’s food history and culture have played a role in the evolution of bread. In France, there are 20 different versions of brioche, each affected by a number of regional factors, not the least of which is available resources.
In northern France butter is often added to brioche; in other parts of the country, olive oil is used in its place. During the French Revolution, brioche was perceived as an extravagance due to the inclusion of such rich ingredients. In fact, it’s been said that Marie Antoinette’s quote, “Let them eat cake,” may actually refer to brioche.
“There are very specific cultural influences to bread,” says Peter Reinhart, a chef on assignment at Johnson & Wales University and the author of James Beard Award-winning books including “Whole Grains Bread” and “The Bread Baker’s Apprentice.” He shares, “Bread is probably the most fundamental of all foods through which stories can be told.” Many breads, in fact, are rooted in tradition. Leading up to festivals and holidays, people often would fast for days, then bake decadent breads to enjoy with family.
Weather and climate also play a distinct role. In humid climates, dough absorbs moisture from the air. As a result, yeast can activate more quickly, causing dough to rise faster. Moist dough can require a longer baking time, which ultimately can lead to softer breads.
Like wine, coffee and even chocolate, bread is influenced by the soils and water of the regions in which wheat is grown. The soil’s pH and mineral levels can affect the taste and texture of bread. The Italian region of Tuscany, for instance, is known for its mineral-rich soils that lead to higher gluten content – something that is needed for making airy, chewy breads like focaccia and ciabatta. In the French region of Provence, rocky and acidic soils form the somewhat bitter taste of pain de Campagne. And in the case of pain Normand, calcium-rich soils in Normandy lead to a sweeter flavor.
Another factor to consider is regional competition. For instance, ciabatta was developed as a rival to the iconic French baguette because Italian bakers felt that it was encroaching on their cultural territory.
“Our standards and the way we process wheat in France is completely different than in the U.S.,” says Romain Soibinet, of Grands Moulins de Paris, a French flour company. “There is no secret: Good ingredients, long fermentation and a lot of passion will give you better bread. Grands Moulins de Paris harvests more than 200 different wheat varieties within our cooperative, so we can blend different types of grains to obtain the perfect consistent flour with the right protein quality and quantity. We focus on the quality of protein in our grains instead of quantity.”
Freshly baked bread sold daily at The Market at Sea Island.
A SLICE OF SEA ISLAND
Many mixed breads and rolls shot from above.
Bread comes out of the oven at The Sea Island Bake Shop every day, served fresh and warm across the resort’s restaurants. Now, those same artisanal loaves are also making their way to The Market at Sea Island, a specialty café and gourmet shop on St. Simons Island, where locals and visitors can pick up fresh provisions, fine wines and thoughtfully curated goods.
“The Market at Sea Island has become a go-to spot for locals and visitors looking to start their day with a coffee and something special to take home,” says Adam Thomas, Executive Pastry Chef at Sea Island. Now, they can bring home a warm loaf of our freshly baked bread to enjoy with family and friends.”
Sea Island is also working with French flour company Grands Moulins de Paris, a cooperative comprising more than 10,000 farmers, to bring new high-quality grains to its breads. “There’s new bread at every outlet across the resort, and we’re very proud of that,” Thomas says.
A RETURN TO ANCIENT GRAINS
Today, there’s a renewed interest in breads made with ancient grains. Chefs are working to reconstruct and reintroduce recipes recovered from archeological sites in places such as Egypt and Turkey, evoking flavors that are reflective of the historical breads. Spelt, for example, has a nutty flavor; kamut is more buttery, while emmer has a floral taste. The heirloom grains offer a crunchy, more rustic texture when compared to modern bread.
These grains not only create exciting new flavor profiles, but they can also be more nutritious. Breads made with kamut, which is high in protein and fiber, can be easier for some people to digest. As Reinhart explains, “We’re able to preserve taste and flavor by bringing back older, more time-honored traditions.”
These traditions also involve slowing the fermentation process, allowing more time for the ingredients to develop a more robust flavor. It’s similar to the way that cheese is aged or grapes are fermented for wine – the longer the process, the better the taste. Additionally, many heirloom grains are grown using sustainable farming practices and by local farmers who stimulate the economies in which they live.
From breaking bread to commemorate a holiday to baking in honor of a family tradition–the heirloom grains are a nod to past generations.
A LOCAL SLICE
We live in a world rich with bread choices: more types, ingredients, preparations and sizes than ever before. Cornbread, a staple in Southern cooking, evolved during times of food scarcity. Corn is a hardy, affordable crop. The flavor profile of cornbread is also influenced regionally, whether sweetened using honey or deepened using buttermilk. Southern biscuits were adapted from scones brought by British settlers but evolved regionally by adding buttermilk or lard which created a more flakey texture.
Sourdough, while famous in San Francisco, has deep roots in the South. Yeast was scarce on the market during the mid-1800s, so Southerners relied on sourdough, which is made with a starter culture that doesn’t require refrigeration. These starters and their accompanying recipes are still passed down within families.
Arched stone windmill in a wheat field.
The countless identities of bread are defined by regional nuances and deep cultural ties. From focaccia to country levain, every iteration is shaped by local conditions and ingredients. Each reflects a wealth of history and tradition, with every bite offering a taste of the past and a deeper connection to heritage. Whether breaking bread with loved ones or baking with time-tested techniques, bread remains a powerful symbol of culture, craftsmanship and community.